If Bellagio is the postcard everyone’s seen, Varenna is the one they wish they’d found first. It sits on the quieter eastern shore of the lake, and every time I take friends there, the reaction is the same: fewer crowds, the same impossibly pretty pastel houses stacked above the water, and a slower pace that makes it my personal favorite base on the lake.
Here’s what to see in Varenna, in the order I’d actually walk it.
How to Get to Varenna
Varenna has its own train station (Varenna-Esino) with direct connections to Milan. If you’re coming from the city for a day trip, I’ve written a full guide to that exact route, including current train times and prices, in my Day Trip from Milan guide.
Coming by boat from Como or Bellagio is just as easy, and honestly the more scenic option. Check my guide to the best Lake Como boat tours if you’d rather book a private crossing than rely on the public ferry schedule.
What to see in Varenna?
Villa Monastero
This is Varenna’s grandest sight, and the first thing most visitors head for. Originally a 12th-century monastery, it was converted into a private villa in the 1800s and now houses a museum alongside some of the most beautiful terraced gardens on the lake: palm trees, citrus groves, and a lakeside promenade that runs right along the water.
Local tip: Give yourself at least an hour here. The gardens alone are worth lingering in, especially the section closest to the water where the paths open right onto the lake.
More details on hours and tickets are on the official Villa Monastero website.
Villa Cipressi
Right next door to Villa Monastero, and often overlooked because of it, Villa Cipressi has its own terraced gardens climbing the hillside in a series of levels, with cypress trees (hence the name) framing views back across the lake toward Bellagio.
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Castello di Vezio
Perched on the hillside above the village, this medieval castle is one of my favorite short hikes on the whole lake. It’s a steep 20-30 minute walk up from Varenna, but the payoff is one of the best panoramic views over the lake you’ll find anywhere. Time it right and you can catch the resident falconry display too.
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The Walk of Lovers (Passeggiata degli Innamorati)
This is the walk that makes Varenna, Varenna. A narrow waterfront path carved right into the cliffside, connecting the village to Villa Monastero, with the water close enough to touch on one side and pastel houses rising above you on the other. It’s short, maybe 15 minutes end to end, but it’s the single best stretch of lakefront walking on the eastern shore.
Chiesa di San Giorgio
Right in the heart of the old village, this 14th-century church is worth a quick stop as you wander: a simple, beautiful stone facade overlooking the main square, with a small, peaceful interior that’s a nice break from the sun. You can find opening times on the official Varenna Turismo page.
See Varenna From the Water
However much walking you do on land, Varenna genuinely looks its best from the lake itself. The pastel houses stacked up the hillside are the classic view every photo of this village is trying to capture.
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Where to Eat in Varenna
I’ve put together full restaurant recommendations, one for every budget, in my Day Trip from Milan guide, since that’s where I originally wrote them up in detail. My personal favorite for a relaxed dinner with a view is still Ristorante La Vista, just above the village.
Where to Stay in Varenna
If Varenna’s slower pace sounds like the right base for your trip, I’ve written a full breakdown of hotel picks for Varenna in my Where to Stay in Lake Como guide, along with recommendations for every other town on the lake if you decide somewhere else suits your trip better. Hotel Olivedo, right by the ferry terminal, is one of my top picks if you want to be in the heart of things.
Why I’d actually recommend staying overnight here: if you’ve read my Day Trip from Milan guide, you’ll know most day-trippers have to catch a train back to Milan or Como in the evening. That means once the last ferries and trains pull out, Varenna quietly empties out and you get the whole village back to yourself: the lit-up promenade, quiet restaurants, no crowds on the Walk of Lovers. It’s a completely different place after dark, and staying the night is the only way to see that side of it.
Final Thoughts
Varenna doesn’t try as hard as Bellagio, and that’s exactly what makes it special. If you only have one day, prioritize Villa Monastero and the Walk of Lovers. If you can, stay the night.
For more on planning the rest of your trip, have a look at my full guide to every Lake Como town or check the best months to visit to time it right.